Tragedy on the Mountain

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“Falling!!!”.  When I heard this word shouted from my climbing companion who was falling downhill headfirst into a massive crevasse on Mt. Baker in September 2006, I had a couple of seconds to get my ice-axe jammed into the ice above me into a classic self-arrest position that we had just learned a few days [...]

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Tips and Tricks for Denali

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I was thinking of what I brought that worked well and what could have been better. Here is my short list: 1. Boots – The Everest Millet boots were worn on the mountain for the first time. They saved a lot of time with avoiding gaiters and overboots and except for banging around the ankle [...]

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Adventures with Piss and Poop

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As I had written in previous post, a lot of people ask how you go to the bathroom on a big mountain such as Mt Denali. The answer: very very carefully First, for us guys, we have a much easier experience for half the time. We can take a pee most anywhere (if we can [...]

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About our Guides and Fellow Climbers (Part Three)

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Sam and Alex were a wonderful couple from UK that are both about 21 years old (three years younger than my Youngest (Nick).  I and everyone had nothing but the utmost respect and admiration for them.  They were eternally cheerful and happy and (I think) Sam was the strongest climber in the group (especially since [...]

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About our Guides and Fellow Climbers (Part Two)

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The other four members of our climbing expedition were Sandra (from Canada), Laine (from South Africa) and Alex and Sam from UK. Here’s a bit of memories of each: Sandra Sandra and I had communicated prior to the climb on email and via our Facebook accounts. She had put together a nice piece on Denali [...]

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About our Guides and Fellow Climbers

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When you climb a big mountain such as Denali, you get the opportunity to spend lots of time with your guides and fellow climbers, who are also responsible as a team for our success and in some cases, our lives. Here’s some afterthoughts on our team-members: THE GUIDES: Nate Opp and Joey McBrayer It sounds [...]

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Back in San Francisco

A short update to the blog with more to follow going backward and posting of pictures.  We summited on July 8th (9 hours up and 4.5 down) getting in to high camp at 17,200 around midnight.  We unfortunately had to pass the body (in snow) of the young Indonesian man who had perished the night [...]

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Anchorage and Way Home

I awoke at around 830am and started getting all of the stuff ready to be transported home. Once this was done, it was a very satisfying moment and seeing everything buttoned up. We had breakfast in the hotel and I had a massive meal of omelet, bacon, potatoes, muffins and juices. We went shopping at [...]

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